Newsletter 6th October 2022

Good afternoon,

Last week it was reported that the government was planning to abandon ELMS - the subsidy scheme proposed to replace the EU’s common agricultural policy by rewarding farmers who look after the land, rather than those who just own a lot of land.

This has subsequently been denied by DEFRA who insists they were instead looking at how the ELM schemes are to be delivered, with the hope of boosting food production and protecting the environment.

Phew. National sigh of relief ensues, the government have things in hand (…!)

Encouraging farmers to farm better, through subsidies or otherwise, has got me thinking about the rapid growth of regenerative agriculture, which apparently now includes 15% of UK farms and is the third most searched term on the Farmer’s Weekly website - a clue that the tide is turning.

The suggestion that farmers sell their plough, buy a direct drill and cut back on the fertiliser & sprays they have relied on for decades is a fairly big ask. It demands a complete shift in the way farmers approach the land and how they respect the soil. Farmers work long hours and make small margins so there isn’t much room for risk - and yet in order to live within our planet’s means it is imperative that they start to implement regenerative practices.

The good news is they are, regardless of what the government is doing.

One of the ways we’re noticing the change is seeing how people in our district treat their hedges. The obsession for tidy hedgerows and mowed verges is slowly being replaced by the understanding that leaving thing unkept and uncut allows the wildlife to thrive. After all, one man’s weed is another man’s flower.

Although some farms around us still insist on trimming everything from the 1st September, we are noticing more and more are leaving things to grow for another year. It’s a good indication of a changing mindset and it’s coming from the ground up.

In the fridge

As it is slow-cooking season, our osso bucco and braising diced beef is on offer this week - buy one and get the second half price.

We also have plenty of brilliantly marbled steak, with the return of some old favourites like flat iron, chuck rib eye & sirloin.

online shop

In the yard

It’s the 3rd of 4 apple swaps this Saturday and we’re doing in style - with our favourite flippers, the 3Bros.

We should have plenty for walk-ins but have been known to sell out on the day, so pre-booking is always advised.

pre-book burgers here

On the telly

I’m enjoying the pizza series of Chef’s Table on Netflix, which follows 6 of the world’s best pizza chefs. I’ve only watched the first two episodes, but both chefs attribute the power of their pizza to the quality of the ingredients they use, and credit good ingredients to good producers. After all, eating is an agricultural act.